In July 1980, the National Training Center began an extensive archaeological survey and evaluation program. Since initiation, roughly 30 to 40 percent of the installation has been surveyed. More than 600 historic, prehistoric and fossil sites of varying size and significance have been recorded thus far.

The Fort Irwin archaeology survey and excavation program is one of the longest continual projects of its type in the Western United States. Excavations and surveys at Fort Irwin have uncovered many periods of Mojave Desert history. During the Ice Age, water and food were available in many of the playas and basins on the fort. At Bitter Springs, Pleistocene animals, many now extinct, became buried and fossilized. Paleontological excavations at Bitter Springs resulted in the recovery of more than 8,000 specimens, representing at least 24 different types of plants and animals. Vertebrate specimens include the saber tooth cat, American lion, coyote, dire wolf and the huge, short faced bear. Camels, llamas, antelope, large and small extinct horses and mammoths were also present at the site. Although these animals lived throughout the last half of the Pleistocene Period, fossil evidence suggests that the springs were active between 450,000 and 10,000 years before the present day.

Ancient hunters most likely first wandered into this area about 10,000 years ago. Using large fluted, spear points, they may have hunted late Pleistocene animals. These hunters were probably very mobile and camped in small, extended family groups along streams and lakeshores. Over a period of several thousands of years, the environment changed from a moist, wet land into the dry, arid desert we see today. Rock circles, stone tools and petroglyphs (rock carvings) pecked on dark, basaltic rock are silent reminders of the unknown generations of prehistoric hunters and gatherers who once lived in the Mojave Desert.

Fewer than 200 years ago, this area was a desolate, turbulent frontier. In the late 1700's, Father Francisco Garces became the first European explorer to enter the Mojave. The Indian trail he followed was to become known as the Old Spanish Trail.

Thousands of settlers and prospectors traveled this trail over the years. Notable travelers included the famous scout Kit Carson and John Fremont. A small fortification called "Carr's Redoubt" was constructed in 1860 at Bitter Springs in response to repeated skirmishes between Native Americans and settlers. Excavations at the redoubt have yielded many Native American and early military artifacts.

The Fort Irwin Cultural Resources Program has clearly made significant contributions to our understanding of life in the Mojave Desert from prehistoric times to the present. Some of the most notable recent accomplishments are construction of a laboratory and curation facility near the Outdoor Recreation Center, extensive public outreach, and winning the 1999 Secretary of the Army Environmental Cultural Resource Team Award.

As a reminder, it is against Federal law and Army regulations to collect archaeological or paleontological material on federal lands. If you find something, please leave it in place and inform the proper authorities. They might even name the discovery after you!